Coiled Wire Bangle
If you have the right tools and have experience working with wire, this bracelet is a snap to make and looks impressive! Use the extra wire scraps to make tiny dangles for extra movement and interest. If you'd like, practice making the bracelet in copper first for an earthy bracelet that's a fraction of the cost of sterling.
I also prefer dead-soft wire as it's easier on the hands, but you may want to use half-hard. I also work directly off my spools of wire to reduce waste.
Level: Intermediate
Materials
16g sterling wire round
18g sterling wire round and half round
20g sterling wire round
22g sterling wire round
2-4 4x6mm wafer shaped drilled stones or beads
Optional: premade sterling jump rings, sterling clasp
Tools
Stepped pliers or round nosed pliers
Bent nose or flat nose pliers
Flush cutter
File
Wire Coiler
Step One - Create Coiled Beads
Create three coiled beads.
Thread 22g wire through hole or wrap around coiler handle (depending on model), leaving a 2" tail. Make a tight coil on the coiler 2" long. Flush cut from spool of wire at end of coil. Remove coil from coiler. String coil on 22g wire (on spool), with the tail toward the end. Allow the coiled wire to fall down to the spool ; you'll be working with the uncoiled wire first. Attach the uncoiled 22g wire to the coiler handle, leaving a 2" tail, and make a 3/8" coil. Bring the first coil back up so that it rests next to the new coil, and attach it's tail to the handle. Carefully coil the first coil around the coiler - don't stretch it out too much. You will now have approximately a 1" coiled bead. Use the uncoiled wire that is coming out of your bead to make another coil at the end 3/8" long. Flush cut the wire from the spool close to the final coil. Remove from the coiler and cut excess wire from the other end of the bead.
Repeat for the second and third beads.
Step 2: Create Links for Coiled Beads
String a coiled bead on 16g wire. Create a closed loop at one end. Push the bead flush to the loop and create another loop at the other end. Loops should be going the same direction; adjust as needed. Hold the link in both hands with the loops horizontal. Bend the link slightly to create an arch in the link - this will fit more comfortably on your wrist.
Repeat for second and third beads.
Step 3: reate Beaded Links
String one wafer bead on 18g round or 20g wire. (Use the largest gauge that will fit through your bead.) Create a wrapped loop at one end. Push bead flush to wrap; create a wrapped loop at opposite end of wire, being sure that the loops are going the same direction.
Repeat for additional beads. You will need two of these links to connect the coiled bead links; additional links can be used as dangles or to extend the length of the bracelet.
Step 4: Make Jump Rings and Connect Links
Using 18g round wire, make 6-8 jump rings using the middle section of the stepped pliers or the largest end of a round pliers. (Optional: use pre-made 5mm 18g sterling jump rings). Using a twisting motion, open and close the rings several times to work harden until you hear a slight click when the ends meet. If the ends are not perfectly flush, file flat. Great jump rings are a mark of quality, and your rings should fit together perfectly. Leave rings open.
Attach links together using the rings - coiled bead link, wafer bead link, coiled bead link, wafer bead link, coiled bead link. Make sure the arches in your coiled links are all going the same direction so it will fit your wrist. There should also be one link at either end of the bracelet to attach the clasp.
Step 5: Make or Attach Clasp
If you are using a pre-made clasp, now's the time to attach it, and you are done! Or, you can create a simple hook clasp that's functional, pretty, and comfortable to wear.
Cut a length of 18g wire 3" long. Use the coiler mandrel to fold the wire in half, so it is a long, narrow U shape. Use a flat nosed pliers (I use a nylon jawed pliers to keep from scratching my wire) to carefully decrease the space in the U until the wires are touching and parallel all the way to the ends. Be sure the wires are perfectly flat and square with each other.
Use the smallest section of the stepped pliers or the smaller end of the round-nosed pliers to make closed loops at the cut ends. Loops should face outward from the center of the U.
Wrap half-round wire around the base of the U, starting at the loops. The purpose in this wrap is to strengthen the U and keep the ends together. Make at least three wraps, and "crimp" them using a flat nosed pliers to keep them in place. Use the flush cutter to trim ends - both of them need to be on the same side. This is the "front" side.
Using the smallest end of the round nosed pliers, make a tiny bend (about 3mm) outward at the bottom of the U (opposite end from the closed loops and the wrap.). This bend will be AWAY from the front of the U, bending toward the back of the U. Use the flat-nosed pliers to carefully squish the bend so that it is folded against the back of the U.
Use a Sharpie to mark half-way between the tip of the U and the base of the wrap (closest to the closed loops).
Use the smallest section of the stepped pliers or the small end of the round nosed pliers to bend the wire at the Sharpie mark toward the front of the U. The bent end should be close to, but not touching the base of the front.
Attach clasp to bracelet using two jump rings - the front side of the clasp will face out, away from your wrist. Hook clasp using the jump ring on the other end of the bracelet, or add additional rings if extra length is needed.
Step 6: Make Dangle Attachments
All that scrap created in Step 1 can be used to make little dangle charms - make flat spirals with a closed loop at one end and attach to the jump rings, or make up your own shapes that compliment the bracelet.
I recommend tumbling for at least one hour to shine and harden the silver. I also like the look of oxidized silver, and usually use Liver of Sulfur to oxidize prior to tumbling.
